QUINCE
recipe collection
There’s something wonderfully old-fashioned about a quince.
Golden, fragrant and slightly unruly, it’s not a fruit that gives itself away easily. Raw, it’s hard and astringent; give it a little time, a little heat and a little love, though, and it transforms into something quite extraordinary ... soft, perfumed and jewel-like, with a flavour somewhere between apple, pear and something entirely its own.
Quinces have a habit of making a kitchen smell magnificent. Roast them slowly with honey and thyme, poach them until they blush a beautiful rosy pink, fold them into pastry, turn them into quince cheese or let them bring their floral sweetness to something savoury.
This is a fruit worth slowing down for. So, if you’ve found yourself with a basketful of these golden beauties, come into my kitchen and let’s see what we can make of them...
So What Can You Do With Quince?
Well... quite a lot, as it turns out ... They don't all have to end up in a crumble. Although, obviously, a crumble is never a bad idea.
Blackberries are fabulously happy things to have in the kitchen. They can be baked, simmered, sieved, frozen, bottled, steeped in booze, folded through cream or turned into something completely unexpected when you find yourself staring at a saucepan wondering “I wonder what would happen if...”
Those are usually my favourite recipes.
So this is my little corner of Nature's Larder dedicated to the blackberry ... from the things I make every year to the experiments that start with a bowlful of fruit and absolutely no plan.
They dined on mince, and slices of quince, Which they ate with a runcible spoon;
From the TREE to the Kitchen
Frequently Asked Questions About Quinces
Can you eat quince raw?
Technically, yes. But I wouldn't bother. Raw quince is hard, dry and astringent, and about as inviting as trying to bite into a wooden spoon. Give it some heat and it becomes a completely different creature.
How do you prepare a quince?
Quinces need a little patience. Wash them, trim away the ends and peel if your recipe calls for it. The flesh is firm and the core is quite tough, so a good sharp knife is your friend. If you're poaching or roasting them, you can often leave the peel on and remove the core after cooking.
Why does quince turn pink when you cook it?
This is one of the lovely bits. Slowly cooked quince can develop from pale yellow to a beautiful blush, then deep rosy pink. It's all part of the magic of cooking it gently and giving it time.
Do I have to peel quince?
Not always. The skin is edible and can add flavour and colour, particularly when poaching. For some recipes, though, especially a silky purée or a delicate tart, I prefer to peel them.
What flavours go well with quince?
Quince loves warmth and spice ... cinnamon, ginger, vanilla, cloves and star anise all work beautifully. It also gets on rather well with honey, thyme, rosemary, citrus, apples and pears. And on the savoury side, try it with pork, duck, game and, of course, cheese.
What cheese goes with quince?
Quite a lot of it! Quince cheese and a good Somerset cheese are a particularly happy marriage. Cheddar, hard farmhouse cheeses, blue cheese and anything with a little salty tang can all work beautifully.
Can I use quince in a crumble?
Absolutely. And I would never dream of suggesting otherwise. Quince can be paired with apples, pears, plums or dried fruit, and its floral flavour makes a crumble a little more interesting than the everyday variety.
How should I store fresh quinces?
Keep them somewhere cool and dry, away from other fruit if you want them to last. They can keep for several weeks, and their extraordinary fragrance is usually a fairly good indication that they're in the kitchen.
Can I freeze quince?
Yes. Peel, core and cut into chunks, then blanch briefly before freezing. You can also freeze cooked quince, which is particularly handy if you've found yourself with rather more quinces than you intended.
What can I make with a glut of quinces?
Now we're talking. Quince cheese, jelly, chutney, roasted quince, poached quince, tarts, crumbles, syrups and preserves will all help. And if you still have quinces left after all that... I know a few people with a suspiciously large quince tree who may have some ideas.
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JO'S KITCHEN NOTES
Quince is one of those ingredients that rewards a little patience. It can look like a rather unimpressive, rock-hard yellow lump when you first bring it into the kitchen, but don't be fooled. Give it time and it becomes something quite magical.
Give yourself a sharp knife. Quince is seriously firm when raw, so don't attack one with a blunt knife and a bad attitude. A sturdy chopping board and a good sharp knife make life considerably easier.
Don't throw away the peel and cores.
If you're making quince jelly, syrup or poaching liquor, keep them. They contain plenty of natural pectin and flavour, so they're far too useful for the compost bin.
Low and slow is your friend. Quince doesn't need to be rushed. Slow roasting or gentle poaching gives it time to soften, develop its beautiful colour and release all those gorgeous floral flavours.
Watch the colour. If you're waiting for that beautiful rosy quince, patience really is the trick. It can take a while to get there, but when it does, you'll know why people get slightly obsessed with cooking them.
Quince loves a bit of contrast. Its natural sweetness works beautifully with salty cheese, rich pork, duck and game. Add a little acidity, spice or something herbal and things get even more interesting.
And if you have too many ... Congratulations. You now have a quince problem. Fortunately, it's a very delicious problem to have. Start preserving.
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