SQUASH
recipe collection
Squash is one of those wonderfully generous things to have in the kitchen. Big, colourful, slightly ridiculous-looking things that seem to promise more food than you could possibly know what to do with.
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And then you start cutting them open ... Sweet, savoury, creamy, nutty, earthy and beautifully versatile, squash can be roasted, stuffed, baked, mashed, blitzed, turned into soup, folded through pasta, scattered over salads or given a little time in the oven until the edges go gloriously caramelised.
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From the familiar butternut to the knobbly, wrinkly and wonderfully named varieties I inevitably bring home because they looked interesting, squash has a habit of turning up in my kitchen and making itself very useful.
So let's see what we can do with it.
So What Can You Do With Squash?
Squash doesn't really do boring. It can be roasted until the edges go sticky and caramelised, blitzed into soup, mashed with butter, stuffed with all manner of things, folded through pasta, layered into gratins or turned into something sweet when you realise that yes, apparently squash can do pudding too.
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It gets on particularly well with garlic, sage, rosemary, chilli, warming spices, cheese, nuts and anything involving a good drizzle of olive oil. And if you've got a squash that's been sitting on the kitchen counter looking decorative for several weeks, don't worry ... that's practically what they're designed to do.
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So this is my little corner of Nature's Larder dedicated to squash ... from simple weeknight suppers to slow, cosy things that take their time, and the inevitable moment when I cut one open and think...
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“Right. What shall we do with you?”
And all at once, Summer collapsed into Fall.
From the Garden to the Kitchen
Frequently Asked Questions About Squash
Do I have to peel squash?
Not always. Some varieties have thin, edible skins that soften beautifully when roasted. For tougher-skinned squash, I usually peel it — although sometimes roasting it whole first makes the job considerably easier.
Can you eat the seeds?
Absolutely. Scoop them out, rinse away the flesh, dry them well and roast with a little oil and seasoning. They make a brilliant crunchy topping for soups, salads and roasted squash.
What's the easiest way to cook squash?
Roasting is probably my favourite. Cut it into wedges or chunks, toss with olive oil, seasoning and whatever herbs or spices you're in the mood for, then let the oven do the work. The edges caramelise and the flavour becomes wonderfully concentrated.
What flavours go well with squash?
Squash is very happy with garlic, sage, rosemary, thyme, chilli and warming spices such as cumin, cinnamon, nutmeg and smoked paprika. It also loves cheese, nuts, seeds, honey, maple syrup and a little acidity to balance its sweetness.
Can squash be used in sweet recipes?
Yes! Its natural sweetness makes it surprisingly good in cakes, breads, pies and puddings. If you've only ever thought of squash as a savoury vegetable, this is definitely worth exploring.
Can I freeze squash?
Yes. Cooked squash freezes particularly well. Roast, steam or boil it, allow it to cool completely, then freeze in portions. It's incredibly handy for soups, sauces, mash and quick midweek dinners.
How long does whole squash keep?
A whole, undamaged squash can keep for quite a while in a cool, dry place. This is one of the reasons I love having them around in autumn — they don't demand immediate attention like a bowl of ripe berries does.
What's the difference between squash and pumpkin?
Pumpkins are actually a type of squash. There are hundreds of varieties of winter squash, ranging from butternut and acorn to kabocha and the wonderfully named Crown Prince. They all have their own flavours, textures and personalities.
What can I do with leftover roasted squash?
Quite a lot. Stir it through pasta, pile it onto toast, fold it into a frittata, add it to a salad, blitz it into soup or mash it with butter and seasoning. Leftover roast squash is rarely a problem in my kitchen.
Jo's Kitchen Notes
Squash can look like a lot of work. Some of them are enormous, some have skins apparently made from concrete and every now and then you meet one that seems determined to roll off the chopping board and take you with it.
A few things I've learnt along the way...
Roast it whole. If a squash is particularly stubborn, don't wrestle with it. Pierce the skin a few times and roast it whole until tender. Once it's cooled enough to handle, it is infinitely easier to cut, peel and scoop.
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Don't waste the seeds. They are brilliant roasted. A little oil, salt and whatever seasoning takes your fancy is all they need.
Give it some colour. Squash loves a hot oven. Don't crowd the roasting tray or you'll end up steaming it rather than roasting it. Give the pieces room and let those edges caramelise.
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Don't forget the acid. Squash is naturally sweet, so a squeeze of lemon, a splash of vinegar or a sharp dressing can make all the difference. It stops things becoming a little too... beige.
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Go beyond butternut. There are so many squash varieties worth trying. If you see something knobbly, striped, unusually coloured or bearing a wonderfully ridiculous name at a farm shop or market, bring it home. That's how the fun starts.
And when you've roasted too much ... Don't panic. There is no such thing as too much roasted squash. Freeze it, make soup, stir it through pasta, put it on toast or eat it cold from the fridge while standing in the kitchen. I won't judge.
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